Japan wrap up
Vol 1948 - Shizuoka to Osaka
I’m writing this from Osaka airport. I arrived here at 7 am for my 12:55 pm flight. This is unlike me. I see arriving unnecessarily early for air travel as a moral failing. I had to lug my bike in a box and all my gear through the Osaka metro, which was distressing enough, but I couldn’t face attempting this feat at peak hour. I’ve been able to weigh my baggage, which has been another anxious element of today’s travel, trying to balance the 30 and 7 kilogram limits for my baggage. My checked is 29.55 kgs, my carry-on is 7.45 kgs, so a very delicate balancing game awaits (I’m already wearing a suspect amount of clothing).
This is my first morning alone. I waved goodbye to Dad last night across the platform as we simultaneously departed opposite-headed trains. Looking ahead at this journey, there’s a lot of excitement, fear and areas of growth. Loneliness, for me, fits firmly under the fear and opportunities for growth categories, so this is a big step for me on this trip, and I feel ready. I’ve loved every day I spent with Dad in Japan, his excitement and delight in me undertaking this journey, and sharing in it was infectious. My parents have delivered me into the person who would want to do something like this, and have the conviction to actually quit their job and do it. I love them and appreciate them a lot.
I’m cooking a longer piece about why people should ride bikes more, but I want to write a summary of my experience in every country I ride through this trip, so this is jumping the queue. So without further preamble here is my Japan wrap up!
Top Highlight
It has to be the morning around Mount Fuji; we had slept with a view of the mountain the night before, but on that morning, the haze had dropped, and the view was crystal clear. Fuji had its famous cloud top, and we rode around the north side of the mountain, passing a series of lakes with iconic views of the mountain. We played a complete run-through of Joshua Tree and took it all in. It was the first time that I felt the distance we had travelled, to arrive in Sapporo 1500ks ago and make it to such an iconic vista filled me with a sense of accomplishment. It couldn’t have been much better.
Honourable Mentions:
Maglev (Obviously)
Oirase keiryū Gorge
Visiting Thom and Zoe’s Ski chalet
Lowlight
Dad’s truck near miss, which I’ve already gone over1. After our early experiences with tunnels in Hokkaido2, this could’ve also been a major contender for this prize; however, we didn’t find any tunnels that didn’t have one of: a footpath, a short length, low speed limits, or a bypass. Otherwise, all lows were surprisingly temporary. I do expect this section to grow in other countries.
Update - Dishonourable mention from China. My kindle screen broke after 12 years of service in transit. And I had nothing to do on the plane so will count that as a Japanese lowlight.
Best meal
In Fujiyoshida, Dad and Alex went on the prowl for a nice spot for dinner. Dad wanted to bounce back from the poor showing in Tokyo with the tepid hotplate and vibe of the Monjayaki3. They returned with a triumphant find of a Brazilian-Japanese fusion restaurant. A surprising combination, I thought, but was curious to see what it would. We ate a $40 set menu that was closer to a degustation, course after course, beautiful sashimi and meat dishes, presented beautifully, prepared right over the bar. We found through a Google Translate conversation that the manager and head chef were on leave, and they were very anxious to have the food live up to expectations without them. It might have explained the number of courses we received, definitely a loss leader, even though it is unlikely that we will return.
Cycling infrastructure and culture
Japan sets a worrying standard that might be hard to top. Bike infrastructure is very frequent, even in the middle of nowhere, with separate paths or quasi bike lane markings. The disuse of these paths, combined with the explosion of plant growth Japan experiences in spring and summer, means some tracks are impassable. When on the road, most cars pass with a lot of care and patience, with the odd truck buzzing the tower.
In the cities, bikes seem to be the best option for many people as their main form of transport. When space is at a premium, not being burdened by a car has great appeal. Also, public transport is so crammed, bikes are fast, free and efficient. One of my favourite aspects of the bike culture was the Japanese “mamachari” (mum bike), often electric-assisted part cargo, part person mover. I want to import one when I’m a parent.
There’s also a thriving culture of cool bike packing bikes, all my favourites: Surly, Rivendell and All City are 30% cheaper here and you go to pockets in Tokyo and Osaka, and everyone is commuting on my dream bikes. I don’t think anyone can find true fulfilment through consumption, except for me, in this country, buying many, many luged steel bikes.
Songs on repeat
Have a listen if you want x
What’s next?
I’m about to fly to Guangzhou China. I have around a month before I need to be in Vietnam for my next special guest appearance. I have a lot of time to explore a country I am not familiar with. I want a bit of flexibility for this reason. I can go straight to Hanoi in about 600kms, or take the mountain roads and take around 1600kms. One is too short, the other may be too far. I’ll look into side trips and make a call soon. The fork in the road is about 200kms away.
Such a gorgeous farewell photo of Kym! It’s been so precious that you have had this adventure together. You are a beautiful human and the wide world is lucky to have you in it. I love you and appreciate you ❤️
I loved the time with you too Nick. I’m so admiring of all that you are.