First impressions

Volume: 199 Adelaide-Sapporo-Niseko

I’m writing this on the morning of my first rest day. My mums cousin owns a ski chalet in Niseko and has been kind enough to host us for two nights. We’ve had a lavish dinner cooked for us and I was able to get a reasonable nights sleep.

Leaving home

I found myself quite numb in the couple days before leaving home. After over a year of planning I was anxious to get going and feel out of if I could do this damn thing. At the same time I was struggling to process leaving my hometown without a return date for the first time. On the day I left I was also saying goodbye to my partner as she begins her 18 month adventure in Houston.

I knew this happening would stir up big emotions both happy and sad, but I felt a bit walled off from them.

Regardless of this weird numb feeling I taped up my bike box. Waved goodbye to Jack, Elliot and Tina at the airport and headed into the unknown. I listened to this a few times on the plane.

Sapporo and the Grand Depart

We spent a day plodding around Sapporo and a day securing dad’s e-bike from the other side of Hokkaido. We stayed near an airport so it would be easier unloading my bike after the flight. Unfortunately it wasn’t the airport we were flying to and we were right out in the burbs.

On a wet Tuesday morning it was finally time to get rolling. I had planned to play where the streets have no name as I began this trip. It probably didn’t fit with navigating a wet peak hour in suburban Sapporo.

The first hour was grim but I was buoyed by dad’s enthusiasm. We quickly found the beautiful interconnected river cycling trails that took us through the city and on into the mountains of Hokkaido.

The weather turned and we took in a long gentle climb through the most vibrant green forest you’ll ever see. We emerged over the top of the climb and caught our first view of lake Shikotsu. A huge freshwater lake bounded by mountains.

We approached our first camp cycling along the shore of the lake. Where we met Roy, another cyclist from Sapporo who took us on a quick detour to a waterfall. We headed into the forest. He fortunately had bear spray and a knife so at least he was safe. The waterfall was a little gem tucked away in a valley and was a brilliant way to end a gorgeous first day of riding.

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This might be the prettiest campsite I’ve stayed at. It’s on the foreshore of the lake. Bound by green hills and dotted with log cabins. It seems Japanese camping culture aligns with my own. It’s very low impact, cars parked away from sites and everyone cooks beautiful smelling dinners. We opted out of the cup noodles we had and instead called in at the restaurant and got chicken and chips. The last serve of the day.

Tunnel vision

The second day was similarly aesthetic but introduced a new peril: tunnels. We knew these were a reality of touring in Japan but we approached the three we faced on day 2 with trepidation.

the first 2 had shoulders and plenty of room for us. The last one however, not so much, it was a two lane freeway with no shoulders. About 2 ks uphill with no lights in the tunnel.

Dad and I were both rather stressed about it and had different approaches for handling the tunnel. We did not discuss this until the entrance. Dad wanted to go down the right hand side but I insisted we stay left. We started plodding along and the first bus quickly began howling up behind us. The noise was deafening but I check over my shoulder and the bus has moved to the centre of the road. I look back and dad has elected to stop. I thought at the time he was panicked. I yelled at him “KEEP MOVING” (I think the first time I’ve yelled at my dad) worried I would crash into him and lay us out before this bus. He took my advice, kicked his e-bike into sport mode and shot to the far end of the tunnel in no time.

The next line of cars was led off by a truck. I was convinced he couldn’t see me. From a few hundered meters in front, I started waving my hand and moving about the road to make sure he could see me. He did but didn’t give me more than 30cms in passing. The following cars took more care.

Rest and rhythm

We finished day 3 at our cousins chalet where I am now. It was a big climb to get here but we were welcomed with a beautiful dinner and lovely light filled room.

We are having our first rest day today after 200ks and plenty of climbing. Going 3 days of cycling and 1 rest day puts me on pace to hit my rough goal of 20,000ks for the year. I think this effort is sustainable but I’m needing to find restraint in my efforts on the bike and in allowing myself to rest.

There is so much to see in these places and I might not be back. But I also know I must improve my fitness to be riding the pace and distance I am seeking in Laos and Thailand. It’s a tough balance particularly when travelling with Dad. I think we’ll find it but it’s hard to contend with fomo at times.